One of my favorite Estonian summer traditions is celebrating Midsummer Day (Jaanipäev), and in June 2010 I spent the holiday at the beautiful Pühajärve area with my Mom and my nephew Siim. Midsummer is one of Estonia’s most cherished celebrations, when families and friends gather around bonfires, enjoy the long northern summer evenings, and welcome the shortest night of the year.
Pühajärve, with its scenic lake, rolling hills, and festive atmosphere, was the perfect place to experience this special holiday. We spent the day exploring the area, enjoying the celebrations, and soaking in the magic of a bright Estonian summer night that seemed to last forever.
Sangaste Manor
As we explored the area around Pühajärve, our first stop was the beautiful Sangaste Manor. Often called one of Estonia’s most impressive manor houses, the castle-like building is surrounded by a peaceful park and picturesque countryside. Its striking red-brick architecture and fairytale appearance made it a memorable place to visit on a cloudy June day.
Suur Munamägi
Next, we made our way to the Suur Munamägi Observation Tower on Great Egg Mountain, Estonia’s highest hill at 318 meters (1,043 feet) above sea level. After climbing to the top of the observation tower, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the rolling hills, forests, and lakes of southern Estonia. Looking out over the endless evergreen forests and gentle hills, I couldn’t help but think of Oregon. The landscape felt surprisingly familiar, and looking back now, it’s no wonder that I eventually ended up living in Oregon—it seems I was drawn to this kind of scenery long before I ever moved here.
Pühajärve Spa & Resort
After a day of sightseeing, it was time to slow down and enjoy the beautiful Pühajärve Spa & Holiday Resort. We relaxed on the terrace overlooking the lake, soaking in the peaceful atmosphere and warm June sunshine.
From the terrace, we enjoyed beautiful views of Lake Pühajärv, often considered one of the prettiest lakes in Estonia. Surrounded by forests and gentle hills, the lake is the centerpiece of the Otepää region and a favorite destination for nature lovers. On this warm June day, its calm waters provided the perfect backdrop for a relaxing afternoon and a nice little walk in a nearby park.
As evening approached, it was finally time for the main event—the Midsummer party. There was a huge bonfire, live music, plenty of people, and a lively atmosphere all around. My nephew Siim decided to make things even more entertaining by showing up in a bright pink punk wig. It definitely stood out in the crowd and got a few laughs. Looking back, the wig may have been just as memorable as the bonfire itself. 🤩
Taevaskoda
The next day, we continued exploring southern Estonia and visited Taevaskoda, one of my favorite nature spots in the country. I have been there a few times over the years, and it never disappoints. The combination of towering sandstone cliffs, peaceful forest trails, and the Ahja River winding through the valley creates a truly special place. It’s one of those locations that feels untouched and timeless, and every visit reminds me just how beautiful Estonia’s nature can be. We also took a ride on the cute little boat, Lonny, along the Ahja River through the beautiful Taevaskoda landscape. Meanwhile, Siim decided that his bright pink punk wig deserved another day in the spotlight and continued wearing it on our adventures.
The most famous sights in Taevaskoda are Small Taevaskoda and Big Taevaskoda, impressive sandstone cliffs that were formed over millions of years by the Ahja River. Their name means “Heaven’s Hall,” reflecting the almost mystical atmosphere of the area. For centuries, these cliffs have inspired local legends and folklore, and today they remain among Estonia’s most beloved natural landmarks.
Another interesting stop in Taevaskoda was Emaläte, or “Mother Spring.” This small spring is considered a sacred place in Estonian folklore, and for generations people have believed its crystal-clear water has healing properties. We filled our bottles with the fresh spring water and took a moment to enjoy the peaceful surroundings before continuing our walk through the forest.
Happy traveling!
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